Words from an Irishman on his way home...

Saturday, 30 September 2006

Toilet humour continued

Please friends... gather together and give me a toilet intervention already. I’m obsessed.
Today’s update is a handy English translation for the facilities in the ANA hotel at Ark Hills.
If you look just down from the centre and to the left, you will see my personal favourite: ‘For Ladies’. Is that a coy smile I see dancing on the woman’s lips?

Friday, 29 September 2006

Good news for my sis and the environment

Big sis, you will be happy to know that Zama City has finally started mixed paper recycling. It's been three years, but it now looks like I will be able to recycle almost all my household waste. And it's not a moment too soon for this anti-global warming measure - Mount Fuji has no snow cover still now at the end of September. This is a first in my students' memories. And you know how long most of them have been around. Just kidding!

Return of the Last Samurai

No, not an announcement for another pants movie by Messrs Cruise and Watanabe. Rather a note that my young bro will be paying me a surprise visit at the end of the year. I can't wait. It'll be his second trip to Japan, making him a seasoned pro and not at all in need of babysitting. We'll mostly hang out, but the main event of the trip will be going to see crazy Japanese pro-wrestling. It'll be a first for me. It's sure to be mad. Roll on December, say I.

Beautiful Bonus Break in Tokyo

I had a great day today. Basically I got an unexpected day off. Apparently my boss had told me ages ago that the school would be specially closed today. But not having written it down, it totally slipped my mind.
It was a wonderful feeling being told yesterday that I didn't have to come in. It's even more precious when your schedule is as full as mine is.
I got up early (unwillingly). My body clock was set to 'work', so I couldn't sleep in. But I took a long, lazy breakfast reading my blog roll. Then I did yoga for an hour. I'm getting better each time, managing to do poses I could never do before. Next time you see me I might try showing off with a bit of contortion. It'll probably send me right to the emergency ward! Pride comes before a fall.
Then I headed into the centre of town and had a nice lunch in a very trendy part of Tokyo. It’s called Ark Hills in Minato Ward. You may recall I’ve talked about the ‘Hills’ brand of shopping complexes before. This is one of the oldest. It’s all glass and marble and fountains and swanky restaurants and cafes. The best part was sitting there watching all the other regular Joes go back to work while I could just hang out. Bliss.
I had a funny incident at lunch. I really am becoming more Japanese than the Japanese themselves. I ate in a very Westernised café. They probably target the many tourists and international bankers and lawyers that knock around that area.
I had a simple lunch of veggie soup and rice. But when it came to my table, I realised I had no chopsticks. Without even thinking, I went up to the waitress and asked for some. Would you believe they didn’t have any? They had to go and get me a sealed, disposable set. I swear I think I got the choppies the cook was going to eat his own lunch with. I was mortified. It had just been a knee-jerk reaction on my part. Turns out they wanted me to eat the rice with a spoon. What am I? A Neanderthal? I was very glad they’d put me in a seat way in the back. The witchy assistants were having a good laugh at me as I walked away. I guess I was the first person to ever ask for choppies.
Having said that, I proved later on that I am far from being one with the Borg. Ark Hills is just around the corner from the American Embassy. As I was aimlessly strolling away from the centre, a police officer stopped me and asked where I thought I was going. Turns out they have special anti-terrorism security measures in effect and you can’t walk up near the embassy without a permit. I was so shocked at the question that for a good few seconds (it felt like hours) not a single word of Japanese would come out of my mouth. Thank God I’d shaved off my beard. In my hirsute state, the cop might have thought I was a Palestinian militant and wrestled me to the ground.
It all reminded me of when I lived in France. At that time the country was under threat of attack from Algerian terrorists. The French have a great word for the special security measures they take in such situations. They call them ‘vigipirate’ - pronounced vee-jee-pee-rat. The ‘vigipirate’ mostly entailed covering over all the trash cans in the country and chaining closed emergency exits, turning them into potential death traps. I just loved that word though. It conjured up images of the vain Frenchies dressing up in their pirate finery to battle the evil terrorists.
Anyway, back to my day off. The weather got pretty good so I took a long walk and visited Hamarikyu gardens. This is an old park right in the centre of the city. Tokyo's not at all the concrete jungle it's made out to be. I took a few pictures, mostly of herons and butterflies, Japanese pine trees and tonnes of plants I don't know the names of. I also got a mozzie bite for my troubles. You wouldn't credit it! And it almost October, too! Thanks a bunch global warming.

Monday, 25 September 2006

On yams and being Japanese...

It's not all just Japanese round here at Cadwell Heights these days. I do try and squeeze in other reading besides my poxy textbooks.
Right now, I'm enjoying a book called Cultural Anthropology. It sounds heavy, but it's very accessible and full of lots of interesting case studies and anecdotes from cultures all over the world (many of which are disappearing as I type).
I'm especially interested in the parts where the author (Roger M. Keesing) talks about how 'world view is encoded in a language'.
He refers to a famous case study of the Trobriand Islanders of the Southwest Pacific (certain Australians who may be reading this will know way more about the topic than yours truly!)
One of the anthropologists who have worked on the data from this island people is Dorothy Lee.
She writes in one passage, 'If I were to go with a Trobriander to a garden where the taytu, a species of yam, had just been harvested, I would come back and tell you: "There are good taytu there; just the right degree of ripeness, large and perfectly shaped; not a blight to be seen, not one rotten spot..." The Trobriander would come back and say "Taytu"; and he would have said all that I did and more... '(Lee 1949:402)
Now, if I didn’t live in Japan and if I had never studied Japanese, I don’t think her words would have meant anything to me.
But as it is, I totally get what she’s talking about.
In Japan, by saying one word or phrase, I can convey what would take me ten words or even a whole page of writing in English. Japanese is beautifully and excruciatingly brief and ambiguous at times. Saying words like ‘おいしい oishii: delicious’, ‘大丈夫 daijobu: OK’ or ‘よろしくyoroshiku: well’ can communicate deep layers of meaning in certain situations that I’m only now starting to fathom.
But similarly, there are times when to translate one word from English, for example ‘you’, I need to choose whole sentences in Japanese. The simple act of addressing another person can force me to consider register, politeness, ranking, humility, and respect. It can be mind-boggling.
Another quick illustration: You know those old fashioned LED screens you see in train stations, airports and the like? The ones that give public announcements or the weather or stock market information? Well I never understood their usefulness until I could read Japanese.
I remember trying to read these boards in English and standing there mouthing out the words as they slowly passed along the screen. The……8.15……train……will……depart……from……platform……14. It all seemed so slow and inconvenient. I often thought an old piece of paper would have worked way more efficiently.
But now I realise these screens were developed here in Japan. As ‘we’ Japanese read in pictures, you can fit whole, complicated sentences in just one screen flash. It’s brilliant. They work great in a Japanese context.
Language, culture and worldview are intimately entwined. Are Japanese people ambiguous, flexible, compromising and accommodating because their language is so? Or is it the other way around and the people have turned out that way because of the language they use?
It has been suggested that the Japanese should simplify their language. Why not adopt a roman script instead of the Chinese characters and two main kana syllabaries used at present? But this idea has always been quickly shot down. To fully express what being Japanese means, the full language, in all its eccentricity and complication, is necessary.
Please note that I only started saying ‘we’ Japanese when my language ability developed beyond a few survival phrases. In fact, it coincided with starting to be able to read and write.
It prompts the question what does being Japanese really mean. If I lived 20 years in America or Australia or Canada, other people might start calling me American. But if I live twenty years in Japan and learn to speak the language fluently, will I ever be called Japanese? People of Korean or Chinese ancestries who speak Japanese like a native are regularly called Japanese (sometimes to their chagrin). Will the day ever come when a person of Irish ancestry will be treated in the same way?
Sorry if this entry ended up coming out like half-baked dissertation proposal. I just thought the whole topic was really interesting. You can all wake up now.

Saturday, 23 September 2006

Before
For the last three weeks I tried rockin' a full beard. I liked it for the first ten days or so. Then it started to get so itchy. I had visions of myself ending up looking like yer man from 'Lost' or something. Instead, I ended up looking more like Debbie Reynolds. Only former inmates of St. Aidan's CBS can appreciate the true horror of this statement. It was bad - 'nuff said.






After
Backck to my former glory. How did I get a tan
in the 24 hours between pictures?
Maybe I have jaundice. That said, I did have
carrot juice for breakfast, though.

Monday, 18 September 2006

For my brother

This is the small video clip I took of the guy practising swordsmanship at Yasukuni Shrine, Tokyo. It's really not that interesting. I thought my bro might be a little into it, though.

Then here is where he messes up.

Snicker. I was happy to feel the wind might be taken out of the right-wingers' pompous sails. For all those visiting Tokyo, there are way more peaceful and bea

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