The wide expanse of beach and dune was just the contrast I was looking for after the craziness of Marrakech's Medina and souks. I wanted to breathe sea air and have space around me. Some of the best moments of the trip so far have been as simple as sitting on top of a dune, listening to the crashing waves, feeling the wind blowing the sand on my skin, and just trying to be in the moment. I found it a real kick to have camels walking up and down the strand.
I have never seen this anywhere before. The locals ply a good trade offering rides up into the dunes. They must work the beasts pretty hard as this guy looks plain tuckered out.
The surrounding landscape is one of rolling olive groves which makes it feel extremely Mediterranean - the local Argan olives and olive oil are famous, apparently. I can safely say I have never eaten so many olives in my life. They come as a side dish to everything, whatever the cuisine. Like pickles in Korea.
The town, too, feels like it's on the Med. It was once a Portuguese colony, I guess, and where Marrakech was all pinks and terracottas, the colour scheme here is the white of the walls and the blue of the shutters. The place has a wind-worn elegance.
The centre of town is made up of the same narrow winding streets as other Moroccan Medinas, but Essaoiura's Medina is more chilled out, less frantic. Think art galleries, craft shops and little mysterious courtyards, rather than hard-sell souks and bustling trade.
The pace of life here is slow, and I loved listening to people just chat from window to window as I passed through the streets. (I could understand some of the rare bits in French.)
And I wasn't the only earwigger.
I spent my days in Essaouira going for long walks on the beach, sitting watching the sea, taking my time over sun-kissed meals, hanging by the pool, and just really relaxing. It was idyllic. I really didn't want to leave and ended up staying an extra two nights.
My stay was without incident except for my stray dog stalker. On a particularly warm day, I headed up to the dunes to enjoy the sun with a bit of a sea breeze when this stray dog comes along and starts chilling by my towel. And I mean right by it.
If I moved off, she would 'casually' follow me.
I guess in the past people have given her food and so she's learned to do this tag along act. I am not that great with animals - even the ones I know well – so you can imagine how comfortable this all made me. So after a few attempts at shaking her off, I walk away really determinedly and she finally gets the hint and targets some other dune-dwellers. Cut to a few hours later, I'm at a beach side cafe enjoying a drink when I look around to see...
Cute and all as she was, I can barely take care of myself, never mind a Moroccan stray. We parted company shortly after I had snapped this shot.
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