Fes

If we're going to continue with this theme of me seeing the towns of Morocco in different colours, then Fes is definitely the creams, beiges and yellows of sandstone. The photos below are all from different locations around the city.

Because of all the hills, the place has a perched, panoramic quality. Dare I say it, it even reminded me of Luxembourg a little in parts. 

A Moroccan guy I got speaking to on the train called Fes an 'authentic' city, and I think that's a good word for it.  Compared to the other places I've visited, Fes doesn't feel like it's aiming itself at tourists.  It feels like a place where real life is going on.  Also, Fes doesn't have the crazy traffic of Marrakech, and it even has quite a few pedestrian crossings. But nor did I discover any wonderful oases of calm in Fes: I guess you have to taste the bitter to really appreciate the sweet.

I certainly experienced plenty of local colour and stereotypical backpacker moments getting here: the bus breakdowns; the mad running with the backpack to make a connection; the sharing of one's seat on a train with live chickens.  I kid you not...if you look at the photo, you can see the girl holding two chicks in her hands.  The mother is busy packing more chickens in and around my seat.  All I could think was BIRD FLU!

I also had more run-ins with my taxi demons.  On one ride from hell, we went the wrong way up a one way street, made an illegal u-turn in the middle of traffic, and stopped for shouting matches with other drivers. It was like a scene from one of the Bourne movies.  If I never have to take another taxi after this holiday, it will be too soon.

So big surprise, I spent most of my time in Fes visiting museums, looking at old buildings, and sitting on terraces watching the world go by. Who'd a thunk it? I'm nothing if not original. Fes has its own unique take on the terrace experience. In addition to the regular offers of shoe shining, they try to sell you all manner of weird stuff as you sit sipping a coffee.  I mean, random stuff like air freshener or quartz clocks or shoes. Fes has a more aggressive trade culture than the rest of Morocco.  It's the only place where I've been almost dragged into shops in souks or taken 'to my friend's very nice place' by 'helpful' guides.  Maybe I'm just feeling a bit souked out, like when people who travel to Europe get cathedral fatigue.

The Nejjarine fondouk is a national landmark and is probably the most famous sightseeing place in Fes.  It's a pretty building and now houses a museum of wood. Even though I love wood carving, and even though the standard of craftsmanship is really high in Morocco, the place still had a bit of a 'museum of buttons' feel about it.

Another 'must see' in Fes would be the Merinid tombs.  These are the remains of a 16th century palace that over look the medina.  You really need a guide with you or you have to read up in advance when you come to see the tombs. Otherwise there's a danger that you find yourself just standing there looking at some old walls. Can you guess the mistake I made?

I also liked the Dar el-Makhzen (Le Palais Royal).  This is a huge complex of palaces and gardens right in the centre of the city, and tourists can only access a fraction of the facilities, but what you do get to see is pretty nice.

I continued to have spectacular weather here. I've been so lucky - it's been blue sky, sunshine and hot temperatures for a whole month. I've rarely experienced such uninterrupted good weather in my life.  Honestly, it has only rained on me for thirty seconds in the last four weeks as I moved from the door of a station to the door of a bus.  I have no doubt that Ireland will soon make up for this lack of precipitation, though.  At least I will always have my memories.