Words from an Irishman on his way home...

Monday, 18 September 2006

Sweet surprise?

My culinary adventures in Japan continue. The above sweets are dried, fermented soybeans covered in chocolate. I mistakenly thought they were peanuts. Think pleasant chocolate with an after-taste of old sock. They were not good. But that was not my sweetest surprise over the last few days (see what I did there?)
I got all dressed and ready to go to Japanese school today and arrived at the train station to see they were still operating on the weekend timetable. It turns out today is a bank holiday Monday: Respect for the Aged Day. So no school. A beautiful bonus day off. I'd completely forgotten about it. Thank you old fogies for this much needed extra free time.
It really is appreciated. I had such a busy Saturday and Sunday. I squeezed in two yoga classes, two private students, one day of regular work, one day of regular Japanese school, a visit to an exhibition, a drop in at the infamous Yasukuni shrine, and a two hour night-time walk through Tokyo. I was exhausted this morning and would have been totally unproductive even if I had had anywhere to go.
In all that weekend activity, I'm afraid there wasn't that much of note.
Yasukuni shrine is the one commemorating the millions of Japanese war dead. It also enshrines some Class-A War Criminals. It's the place that Prime Minister Koizumi insists on praying at, thus causing China, Korea et al to have another excuse for hating 'us'.
It's not a pleasant place. Whenever you go there are always these right-wing nutjobs in army fatigues hanging about. It's quite intimidating.
When I dropped in there was a display of traditional sword craft. I took some video, mainly for my little bro. I'm not sure if I can be bothered uploading it. In another setting I think I'd have loved to see a guy in full kimono practising traditional sword fighting skills. But in Yasukuni it smacked of dirty nationalist pride and aggrandisement.
The best part is I caught him on video making a mistake and failing to slice through a bamboo rod. He knocked it over instead. I secretly hoped he'd have to go and impale himself for the shame he'd brought on the shrine.
One thing I will say in defence of this place is that one person’s war criminal is another person’s hero. History is the account of the victor, right? Let’s say the US hadn’t won the war. It’s not such a leap to imagine that those who ordered A-bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki would now be Class-A war criminals themselves. War is atrocity. Yasukuni is a complicated place. It requires deep soul searching and dialogue on ALL sides. Unfortunately, the powers in all the affected countries do not seem to be interested in sensibly discussing the issue and finding a way to live together and move on. Not when there’s a chance for posturing and playing to worst elements of the home crowd. For some reason I’m thinking of Pope Benedict right now. Wonder why?
Anyway, the art exhibition I went to wasn't that great either. It was in a small gallery that I like with some Japanese artists whose work I'd enjoyed before. Mainly Nihonga: A style of painting where the paints are all made from these crushed precious stones and metals. The theme was Japanese wildlife. Maybe I just wasn't in the mood, but none of the pictures really spoke to me. I guess I was quite impressed by one picture of a white peacock in front of yellow hibiscus. Not so much for the art itself, but more for its detail and all the skilled work that went into it.
I did see one huge folding screen depicting cormorants on a craggy misty cliff. I totally associate these birds with Ireland and some wild place like the Skelligs, or that. I must have some sense memory of having to draw them in Nature Study class or something. I suddenly came over all homesick and wished for a crisp new copy book and some sharply pared colour pencils. Oh to be in primary school again. I wouldn't mind going back if I could ensure that I’d skip ages 13 to 19. No way I'd want to ever be a teenager again.
The only other thing that sticks in my head from the last few days is that at yoga one of the women in the class brought along her boyfriend. She's pretty experienced, but he was really struggling, as it was his first trial lesson. He even sat out quite a few of the more difficult poses.
The thing is, she sat them out, too. As it wasn't her first time, I was surprised. Do you think she was doing this so as not to hurt his ego or make out she was stronger or fitter than he was? If so, that really sucks. Are we men and women all really so afraid of each other? Can't we see that everyone has a unique contribution and value? This life is neither a race nor contest. We all have a valid part to play and different strengths and weaknesses. I dunno. For some reason, it just really depressed me.
In fact, this past weekend was a total bummer, now that I look back on it. I wish I hadn't bothered to write about it now. I'm sorry. I'll try and be cheerier next time.
P.S. It's still raining, by the way, for what feels like about the fifth straight month. Totally helping my mood.

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