Pusan - the beach

Coming from the airport, Pusan reminded me of Hong Kong. From the bus, you are met with row after row of high-rise apartments, which show you how densely populated the city is. But once you get to Haeundae Beach, it's much more like Dubai. There are lots of gleaming skyscrapers and almost as many cranes,

and all the guides proclaim that the city has 'the world's biggest department store'

or "Korea's longest bridge'.

I guess the heat and multi-lane highways with out-of-control bad driving also add to the distinctly Emirati impression.

When I arrived at my hotel, I was well pleased. It was definitely five star, but the staff could not have been more relaxed or friendlier.

And best of all was the view of the beach from my room and the sound of the waves lapping against the shore below.

Now it is a very much a city beach - think Sitges outside Barcelona or Manly in Sydney - and as a result it is fairly black with people of a weekend.

But during the week, and especially in the early mornings, you could really have a good stretch of the sand and sea to yourself. Luckily I am now an old man and, thus, a very early riser: even on holidays I woke before the alarm very day about 5.45 to yoga and then an hour's walk on the beach and around the headland.



Haeundae is definitely a tale of two beaches. The end where I was had the yacht club and the marina, and smelled of rich people (Aveda white tea and aloe shower gel mixed with money, in case you didn't know), while the far end had some dodgy looking motels, a few nightclubs and smelled of stale beer and fish. Needless to say, I spent most of my time as an impostor in the land of plenty.

A brief beery aside: Korean people are known as the Irish of Asia, and I can see why. On my aforementioned early morning constitutionals - we're talking 7am here people - it was not unusual for me to see young and old alike knocking back some beers or chu hai as they saluted the sun. To be fair, these serious party people were far outnumbered by the healthy types who were out swimming and jogging and power walking along the strand. Even people in electric wheelchairs were out keeping pace with the joggers. It also heartened me to see the volunteers out every morning cleaning the beach and taking pride in their surroundings and keeping things nice for everyone.